Busan or Jeju Island: Which to Visit

Busan is one of Korea's major cities. It is the second largest city, after Seoul. As a bustling port city, it's a little rougher than Seoul, and has hself on to Korean traditions better.

It's a great destination if you want to experience some traditional Korean life in an urban setting, with a mix of exploring nature, mainly beaches and coastline.

For example, in Busan, you still see many street vans selling Korean traditional snacks- something hardly seen in central Seoul now.

The beaches in Busan are also second to none- they're not only beautiful but also have the supporting infrastructure built around them. (Jeju's beaches are a little less developed in comparison.)

Lastly, if you love BTS, the Korean actor Gong Yoo, or Running Man, Busan is the place for you. (Apparently you can also see some Korean celebrities if you visit during Busan International Film Fesitval.)

If you only have a day in Busan, click through for some suggestions as to what to do.

Note: if your next stop is Japan, Busan makes sense logistically, as Busan is closer to Japan than it is to Seoul!

Jeju is the most famous of South Korea's 3200 islands, often called Korea's Hawaii. Koreans simply adore Jeju, and it's been featured on many Korean dramas, such as "Welcome to Samdal-ri" and the classic "My name is Kim Sam Soon."

Formed by a volcanic eruption over 1.8 million years ago, Jeju is the perfect place to see natural wonders. It has breathtaking natural scenery from coastlines and waterfalls to volcanic rock formations, and the majestic Mount Halla.

It's a great place to enjoy nature and enjoy outdoor activities, such as hiking or golfing. Some of the hotels, such as Shilla Jeju, have gorgeous gardens.

Equally famous are its UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Mount Hallasan, the Lava Tunnels, and Sunrise Peak, Seonsang Ilchulbong.

It also has its own distinct traditional Jeju culture, which differs from mainland Seoul, including shamanism, and haenyeo (female divers that are now part of UNESCO Heritage.)

Last but not least, Jeju is famous for its food: from strawberry picking in the winter to its black pig!

Note: a lot of sites say that people like Jeju for its subtropical climate but it can still be REALLY cold and so windy, you'll feel like you're about to be blown away!

• By Train: The KTX (Korea Train eXpress) is one of the most popular ways to get to Busan in about 2.5 hours, offering a fast and comfortable journey. Note that if you purchase the cheaper tickets, the travel journey time will increase, and the trains will get more crowded. (I always go to Busan by KTX.)
• By Bus: If you're on a budget you can take a bus from Seoul to Busan, which will take about 4-5 hours.
• By Air: The fastest way from Seoul to Busan is by plane, around 1 hour. However, after including the time for airport transit and security, KTX is usually the more convenient option,.

• By Plane: An airplane is the fastest way to get to Jeju from mainland Korea.
  • From Seoul, flights leave from Gimpo International Airport. (You will need to take a bus or train from Incheon International Airport.) There are several airlines which travel this route, including Jeju Air.
  • For direct flights from Busan, go to Gimhae International Airport.  (Air Busan, Jeju Air, Korean Air and Jin Air fly directly from Busan to Jeju-si.)
• By ferry: If you're traveling with a car, you may want to take a ferry, as some allow cars on board.  
  • Your passport or personal ID is required when travelling by ship in Korea.
  • The most convenient ferry terminal to travel from is Incheon Coastal Passenger Terminal (NOT Incheon International Terminal), as the other terminals do not have Enligsh on their websites.
  • To get to Incheon Coastal Passenger Terminal takes about 35 minutes by city bus from Jemulpo Station (Seoul Subway Line 1.)

1. Haeundae Beach: The famous beach in Busan and possibly all of South Korea. It’s a must-visit for beach lovers, especially in the summer months, where there are sandcastle competitions and buskers on the beach. Taking the Haeundae Blue Line Park Sky Capsule at sunset is super picturesque!
2. Gwangalli Beach: for a great view of one of Busan's most famous sights, Gwangalli Bridge
3. Jagalchi Fish Market: This is Korea’s largest seafood market, where you can try many of Busan's famous seafood dishes or buy dried seafood to bring home with you. If you're not a fan of seafood, you can also check out the seaview from the top floor of Jagalchi Market, where the restaurants are located.
4. Gamcheon Culture Village: A beautiful story of hope, often called the "Machu Picchu of Busan," this is a former Korean war refugee slum that has been gentrified into an artists' community. It's famous for its many colorful houses, sculptures, and artistic atmosphere. You can even see all the way to the coast from some spots! Though some parts are quite touristy, Gamcheon Culture Village was one of my favorite things to do in Busan.
5. Huinnyeoul Culture Village: this is another gentrified area, located by the coast- slightly less fascinating but equally worth visiting.
6. Beomeosa Temple: This serene temple is nestled in the mountains, and a good place to explore traditional Korean architecture and spirituality.
7. Haedong yonggungsa temple: located by the sea, this is one of the most beautiful temples in all of Korea. 
8. Jeonpo Cafe Street: perfect for those who love cafes!

1.  Sunrise Peak (Seongsan Ilchulbong): one of Jeju Island's most iconic landmarks, it was formed over 5000 years ago by hydrovolcanic eruptions. Many people go there to hike- you can even store your luggae at the entrance! (Both for a fee.) It takes about an hour to climb up and down (not wheelchair accessible.) Catching the sunrise from the sunrise-shaped Ilchulbong is an unforgettable experience.
2. Innisfree House: one of the most popular mid-range Korean skincare brands has its flagship here. There, you can buy Innisfree skincare, make soap (there's no teacher, you just buy the kit), admire green tea fields, or have some tea and snacks at the cafe. It's one of the most popular attractions so gets VERY crowded, even during off-peak season. (Too crowded for me, to be honest.)
3. Udo Island: this is a very fun activity when visiting Jeju. It's basically an island off an island (Jeju.) You have to take a ferry from Jeju to Udo. On Udo, you can rent a small scooter-car and drive freely around the island. (You'll need an international driving license.) There's a public bus but it's not the most convenient. Foreigners aren't allowed to bring their cars in UNLESS they have senior citizens with them. (We hired a car and driver in Jeju and brought them over to Udo with us, making it much more convenient to get around.)
4. Manjanggul Lava Tubes: this is another UNESCO attraction.

Busan

There isn't a bad time to visit Busan.

Spring and autumn have gorgeous natural beauty. (My personal favorite is autumn, as the autumn leaves are spectacular and the air quality is much better.)

Note: if you're hoping to see famous Korean actors, your best chance is during the Busan International Film Festival in October.

Whilst I prefer not to spend summer in Korea, because it's swelteringly hot, if you like hot weather, Busan is one of the best places to spend the summer months in Korea, thanks to the beaches. The cooling sea breeze also gives it a more temperate climate.

Jeju

The best time to visit Jeju- and Korea in general- is autumn.

Whilst spring is just as beautiful as autumn, the air quality is horrific in spring. You'll have more days to go out and about in autumn.

Note: it can be hard to see cherry blossoms in Jeju, as they get blown off the trees by the strong winds very quickly!

• Busan is renowned for its fresh seafood. Must-try dishes include fishcake (eomuk), hoe (raw fish), seafood stew, and grilled eel. (When I had samggyetang in Busan, it came with octopus, something I've never seen in Seoul!)
• It has a special ssiat hotteok (Korean sweet pancake) filled with nuts that you can find at BIFF Square.
• Another famous dish is Dwaeji Gukbap, a pork and rice stew.

• The food at Jeju Island was the BEST I've had in all my (about) 10 trips to Korea!

From luxury hotels in Haeundae (and Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon) to budget hostels, Busan caters to all types of travelers.

Here's my review of Signiel Busan.

Note: if it's ocean views you're after, I recommend staying at Haeundae (if you want to stay in an international hotel), Gwangalli, or Songdo (if you don't mind a less high-end vacation.)

If you want to stay in 5-star hotels, you'll need to either stay at:

• Grand Hyatt in Jeju-si/ Jeju City (the largest Grand Hyatt in Asia-Pacific and featured on Singles Inferno 3 as Paradise. It's very close to Jeju International Airport) OR
• in one of the resorts along the Southern Coast, just outside Seogwipo, such as Shilla or Lotte.

The resorts are quite comprehensive, so you could stay there and enjoy the beautiful views without leaving the grounds!

If you want to stay in the small towns, you'll have to do a pension (guesthouse stay.)

Busan’s nightlife is vibrant, with a variety of bars, clubs, and cultural performances, especially around Haeundae and Seomyeon. (As a port city, it does feel a lot rougher than Seoul though.)

I wouldn't recommend Jeju for nightlife. The cities in Jeju aren't super interesting, compared to Busan or Seoul.