Ikseon-dong, Seoul is an area full of traditional Korean houses, trendy shops, and cute cafes that has become popular in the last few years. But is it worth visiting? Here are the best and worst things about the area, and how to get the most out of your visit!
Ikseon-dong 서울특별시 (益善洞), in Jongno-gu, Seoul, was 1 of the places I was most looking forward to visiting on my trip to Seoul. It's a newish hanok village that has become popular in the last 5 year or so, and is often suggested as a must-have on a Seoul travel itinerary.
Filled with beautiful old Korean houses (hanok), it seemed like a super charming and quaint place to hang out, in all the YouTube videos that I had trawled through. (There's no admission fee, so it's a fun free thing to do in Seoul.)
But is it worth visiting? To be honest, I found it a little over-rated. Scroll down to find out how to get the most out of your time in the small alleys!
Location
Address: Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul ~ 서울특별시 종로구 익선동
Don't forget to print out the Korean name and address to show the cab driver or in case you need to ask for directions!
Ikseon-dong is located very close to Insa-dong and Bukchon-dong. All 3 are historical places, so it would make sense to visit the 3 on the same day. (Click through for a list of things to do in those areas.)
I've actually walked from Insa-dong to Ikseon-dong, but the walk isn't very pleasant. Ikseon-dong is a gentrified village, and some of the areas around it haven't been, shall we say, rejuvenated. (If you're wondering, I never felt unsafe but there were some interesting smells along the way.)
Thse places are also very close to Myeong-dong, which is paradise for skincare lovers (all those free samples! Someone told me she collected 14 free masks on her 1st visit to Korea! Alas, the sales assistants no longer welcome you in-store with a freebie- call me cheap, but I find that detracts from the fun of Myeong-dong, slightly. (I do buy if I take the freebie.)
Tip: If you're planning to shop, I would visit Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong and Bukchon-dong first, then visit Myeong-dong or you'll be carrying a lot of heavy things around! (Alternatively, you can leave your stuff in a locker in the subway station, for a small fee.)
I find Ikseon-dong a very see-and-be-seen kind of place. For example, look at the cafe seats below: they're right by the window, so everyone walking through the alley will see (and hear) you. It's a great place for taking photos, and admiring interesting cafes, but not really for relaxing in a corner quietly, with a book.
Not far from Ikseon-Dong, but further from the typical tourist route in Seoul, is Eunpyeong Hanok Village. If you prefer a more tranquil escape from Seoul's craziness, head there for a blend of heritage and nature.
What You'll Find
I ended up going to Ikseon-dong twice during my visit.
You can find all sorts of super cute cafes, restaurants, shops and even a small arts market there, all connected by narrow alleys. Some people call it Ikseon Hanok Village, and you'll see quite a lot of traditional Korean houses (hanok) there, but also some regular old buildings.
The area used to be super run down, so not all of it has been gentrified. You'll know once you've left the main area because the streets start looking much less interesting.
Ikseon Dong is probably the best places for cafes that I've been to in Korea. Unlike Jeonpo Cafe Street in Busan (another famous cafe district), it's not just the cafes that are pretty. (Some of) the area outside the cafes has a great atmosphere too- definitely a great place to take photos for Instagram, or videos for TikTok.
Best Things to Do
Cafes
My top tip for getting the most out of your time at Ikseon-dong is to not be married to particular cafe, and just go to one that isn't crazily crowded.
Cheong Su Dang 청수당 (淸水堂) is one of the most popular cafes to visit in Ikseon-dong, and I can see why. There's a small water feature at the entrance, and you have to walk across small stones to enter the hanok cafe, which makes it extremely charming. (See above.)
It can feel a bit like stepping back in time, actually (or at least till you enter the cafe, whose interiors are quite modern.)
However, the world and her wife have all discovered it, so be prepared for a LOOOOONG wait. I went during off-peak hours (morning, weekday) and was told I would have to wait 1-2 hours for a table! Not really my idea of a good time (also since the cafe was crowded, and not really a peaceful place to hang out- the atmosphere is quite different from the tranquility suggested by the entrance.)
Address: 31-9 Donhwamun-ro 11na-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
서울특별시 종로구 돈화문로11나길 31-9
Opening Hours: 11:30am – 10pm (Mon – Sun)
If you're older, or have mobility issues, you may need a bit of help walking over the stones. (i.e. someone to hold your hand as you cross)
Nakwon Station Cafe 낙원역
Address: 33-5 Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Opening Hours: 11:30am – 10:30pm (Mon – Sun)
If you like souffles, there's DongBaek Bakery which serves souffle pancakes, but mind you the wait is looooong.
Address: 17-24 Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Opening Hours: 9 am to 10 pm (Daily)
For afternoon tea lovers, try Rami Scone Cafe, which serves both traditional British and fusion Korean scones.
Address: 152 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea ~ 서울특별시 종로구 돈화문로11나길 25
Opening Hours: 12pm – 10pm (Mon – Sun)
Note: to avoid the crowds, one of the cafes we tried was Wooz Cafe, which is a little out of the centre of Ikseon-dong. It has a 4.1 rating on Google but I don't recommend it. It's not as cute as the other cafes, which would be forgiveable if the drinks and cakes were amazing- but, alas, they are not! (Some reviews say the pastries are amazing though- we ordered 6 things and nothing stood out to me- so maybe it's a bit hit-and-miss?)
Also note the cafe's toilet is down a flight of stairs.
Restaurants
From small eateries offering traditional Korean cuisine to international restaurants, such as Thai, you'll find lots of different food in Ikseon-dong. (Personally, I prefer to eat Korean food in Korea. If you can't take spice, here are some Korean foods with no Gochujang or Chili Powder.)
Shops
You can also pick up some Korean fashion and Korean accessories here. However, I don't think the items are that unique- you'll find similar clothing and jewelry in MyeongDong and Hongdae- and the prices aren't the cheapest.
Market
There's a very, very small arts market in the centre of Ikseon-dong. But I find that you get cooler items at the market in Insa-dong, to be honest.
Getting There
The most convenient way to get to the area is a taxi, of course!
If you want to save money, you can also take the subway then walk over. There are 3 stations in the area:
- Jongno 3(sam)-ga Station (Line 1, 3, 5): make sure you get off at Jongno SAM (3) and not Jongno 1 or 2!
- Anguk Station (Line 3): this is the closest subway to Insa-dong FYI.
- Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station (Line 2, 4, 5)
Accommodation
If you're wondering where to stay in Seoul, and looking for a central location that makes it convenient for travelers to get to various attractions but is not TOO overcrowded with foreign tourists (unlike Myeongdong), the Ikseon-dong area may suit you.
One of the closest hotels would be the 3-star Jongro Makers Hotel, which is a convenient base for those who want to spend more time in the hanok village. It's cheap, fairly clean, has a good location, but don't expect much service.
Personally, when traveling with elderly relatives, I prefer staying at Lotte Seoul, which is just outside MyeongDong, and then taking a taxi to Ikseon-dong. (Lotte has everything you need in the same complex: a Duty Free Shop, department store, supermarket, Korean restaurant, facial Sulwahsoo spa etc, so it makes things much more convenient. And there's a direct airport limousine bus to and from Incheon Airport!)
Best Time to Visit
The best time to be in Seoul is fall, when the temperature is great, the colors of the trees beautiful and there's less air pollution than in spring. (Spring is the second best season to be in Seoul.)
As for visiting Ikseon Dong, I strongly recommend going off-peak hours i.e. on the weekdays, in the morning.
The neighborhood gets very crowded, especially in the afternoon, which detracts from the experience. (The alleys are quite narrow, so it can be very stifling in the summer.( To avoid the large crowds, I highly recommend visiting in the early mornings around 11:00 am. (Don't go too early as cafes in Korea don't open that early.)
During these times, you can explore the charming alleys and take stunning Instagram-worthy photos without feeling overwhelmed by the crowd.
Any questions about visiting Ikseon-Dong? Let me know in the comments, or tell me what is your favorite memory of the place!
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